Olya shared half her orange with me for our first breakfast. Her nature is to be very thoughtful of others. Most all the people I have been given the chance to walk with are this way. Very thoughtful.
As we walked together along the dewy, gravel Camino, Olya noticed a snail in the path. Her sympathetic and compassionate heart lead her to pick it up and move it into the tall grass so no pilgrims would step (or in the case of cyclists, roll) on it. Olya took two more steps, and again bent over to another snail. Two more steps, and again. I looked up ahead and solely in my line of vision estimated another 50 upcoming snails. This was going to be a long 3km.
Haha Olya got overwhelmed by the amount of snails to precaution, so she eventually just had to go lottery style.
We made it to the first town, Monatinos. There we these curious wine cellars built into the hills. The even had chimneys. The sign posted said "No, these are not hobbit houses." Haha! Perfect. Thank you for clarifying.
Also in this sweet, little town we found trees that wore sweaters. Is that not the cutest? I don't know if it's a year round thing or if it was done solely for a holiday, but I might have to adopt this idea for my trees later on in life.
We went into the church of the town. It was the smallest, quirkiest church yet.
As we were transitioning our walk to the next town, we had huge wind-turbines towering in the hills on our right, and large solar panels posted below the knoll on our left. Spain is so ahead when it comes to alternative energy and conservation. Paper towels are a rarity. Lights are mostly timed--and timed short! When I pee at a bar, I generally have to flick the lights back on or wave my hands around (if motion-sensored) at least 3 times during the 2 minutes I'm in there.
We headed onto the next town where we stopped for breakfast and were able to catch-up with Lainey and Chris. Olya and I both had chorizo omelettes in a half baguette--basically a breakfast sandwich. However, the egg-style we ordered would typically be eaten for dinner in Spain, I think. Maybe second breakfast, too. I'm still learning. A café con leche was necessary, too. This albergue/bar gave us huge ones. It was delightful.
Breakfast was consumed and our walj continued. I played uke on an off. As we entered into Sahagun, we crossed through the half-point arches, but I didn't even take notice. Once in the city, Olya and I went one way and Chris and Lainey went another. Olya and I stopped at the para-pharmacy first--she's having some nasty blisters on just one foot. Poor girl. I asked the clerk what the difference between a pharmacy and a para-pharmacy was... Do you have a guess?
Pharmacies sell prescriptions and medications, whereas para-pharmacies take a more natural approach to their remedies and products. Think health food store but without the food, I guess.
Next we headed to the church of Sahagun and then the municipial albergue to get a stamp for said church and buy me a new credencial. My old one is already filled up with stamps. Perfect timing--half way through.
Olya happened to read a sign on our way in that said something about a half-way certificate. So the Pilgrim Sanctuary of Sahagun was our next search. We took a map with us.
After being told by four different locals that we were going the wrong way (the Pilgrim Sanctuary goes off the path of the Camino, so they assumed we were lost), we finally arrived to the three story and several century old building. It looked to be a church/museum. And that's what it was.
"Tell me," the pretty clerk greeted as I approached the window counter in the lobby.
"We've come to get the half-way certificate," I responded uncertainly.
"You mean you've come to see the sanctuary," she grinned as she corrected me.
"Yes, that," I agreed with embarrassment.
We left her our credenciales and payed our 3€ each for admission. We spent the next half hour perusing around the large sanctuary at the modern art on display, the unknown mummy and other ruins, and the figure of the Virgin of the Camino or the Virgin Pilgrim--the official Camino Saint. Most of the Sanctuary and building was still under restoration, but it was still lovely. In the side corredors there were two other galleries. One with various still life's done in oil pastels by whom I assume to be a local artist. The other gallery was a concurso. I just had to look up the English word in translate because I forgot what it would be: contest. This specific contest were all painting that were Camino de Santiago related. It was amazing. Every canvas seemed so familiar to me; the colors, the subject, the mood. All things you would see, know, and feel on the Camino.
We returned for our certificates and credenciales, thanked the gal, and headed out. I munched and offered to share my orange I'd bought at breakfast as Olya and I navigated our way out of town. We made it. We were on our way. We were careful to follow my map since we'd be taking the alternate route to get to the town we'd be staying, hopefully with the others. Luckily we found a Spanish lady-pilgrim who was doing the same, so the three of us found the path together.
I played my uke almost nonstop for the two hours that we walked. The other pilgrim gal even purposefully caught up to us to be able to listen better to my playing, she told me. What a sweet thing! I'm getting better every day at playing and walking at the same time. Might have to form my own uke marching band some day.
We made it to Bercanios! And we found the parroquial albergue (donativo) where we'd be staying. And Lainey and Chris were there! This albergue is neat because it's adobe (the walls made out of clay and hay) like the other buildings we've been admiring in these last few towns. Once admitted, I quickly showered and did laundry. To my bunk bed I went and fell asleep while catching up on blogs.
I awoke to a gust of wind blowing dirt and debris into our seconds story room. I rushed outside to collect my clothes the wind had strewn all over the patio along with any from other people and placing them on a chair out of the dirt. I carried my clothes inside to organize. I sat on the wooden floor upstairs by the outlets to charge and catch-up on more blogging.
No mass this time. I wasn't in a mood for it. Dinnertime came and I went down with Lainey to join the others when we heard the bell. We sat on the long wooden bench at the wooden table that was already set so delicately. Bread, wine, and chef salad (with apples and green olives) were centered on the table to accompany the meal. We chanted a wrap blessing together, banging our hands on the table Queen's "We Will Rock You" style, then dinner was served. Chunky potato soup with bell peppers and chorizo sausage. Delectably Spanish. After dinner, lyrics were passed out and together we sang a relatable Pilgrim song to the tune of La Bamba. Lots of giggles throughout the song. An elderly hospitalero finished the gathering by reciting a poem he wrote about his Camino experience. Precious.
I excused myself to the bar to use the wifi to post blogs and sip a coffee. The gang stopped by to invite me to come see the sunset. The internet cut out, so I did go afterward. About a third of the people staying in the hostel tonight were all at the picnic tables on the hill watching the sunset. The hospitalera from Madrid let us taste her shot of Crema de Arujo (kind of like Bailey's, but better) as she snuggled up to the Italian hospitalero. They're a really cute middle-aged pair who I believe only met two weeks ago when they started volunteering together here in Bercanios.
The sunset was lovely and beamy. Lainey, Chris, and I took turns bursting out into Lion King songs. Time for bed.
It's 23:32 as I'm up past lights-out typing this on my phone. Snores of all calibers and kinds fill the room. Thunder echoes across the sky outside the window. Maybe it'll rain tomorrow.
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