I slept through my 5:30am alarm for 8 min. before I determined it was a new noise of the dorm that I actually did have control over. Off it went. To sleep I returned.
Up at 6:15 and down for breakfast by 6:32. This hospitalero was sweet. Has walked the different variations of the Camino 10 different times. Toast with jam, juice, and coffee for breakfast... Per ushe.
Today Olya and I walked together. We had a lot of great chats. We stopped two different times at bars to rest and both times met up with Lainey and Chris. After the second time, we walked all four together. I played my uke a little today while walking.
Today began the portion of the Camino known as the Meseta which is notoriously boring. Flat plains of wheat. And contrary to the poem, there is no rain in these plains. No shade either. Just piercing sunshine. And every so often pilgrims are graced with a precious breeze.
We conquered 26km today.
Olya had in mind for us to stay in a donativo with no electricity. Best albergue of the trip yet.
The San Anton convent ruins. We are staying in a refuge in some ruins. Are volunteer hospitaleras are Nella originally from Poland and Celeste from South Africa. Nella is a vegetarian Buddhist of a quiet disposition and sports a shaved head and hippie braid. Celeste is a bubbly, meat-eating self-proclaimed "happy-clappy-Christian" whose a grandma of four. Both are recently widowed. Both are darling souls.
When we arrived to the ruins, Celeste gave us a tour. I was the first to shower and wash while the others stayed at the picnic table to chat with the two gals. Dennis arrived a little later. Together we are Lainey, Chris, Olya, Dennis, and myself.
After I finished washing myself and my laundry, I chatted with Celeste for a bit and she shared some about her family. Once Lainey and Olya had showered and finished their laundry, the three of us did a little exploring. At these ruins, there is a place within the tunnel arch where centuries ago nuns and/or monks used to leave bread and wine for the poor pilgrims that passed through. The cutouts are now filled with memorial notes of modern day pilgrims. I also trespassed on some chicken coops. The metal door was left unlocked, but once I realized it was private and that I was trespassing, I skedaddled.
Nella rode a bike into town (4km away) for groceries and a melon for dessert. The town we're in now--San Anton--is not even a town I don't think. If it is, the population is likely four people. No stores. Just a chicken coop and two possible homes.
I played my uke again while the others read.
When Nella returned, we all helped prepare the dinner. We had a vegetable salad, pasta with chorizo, leftover lentils, bread, and wine. Sliced melon for dessert. Great conversation and sharing at the kitchen table. We all cleaned up together, LINE style. Coffee for a second dessert and more conversation. Celeste shared two beautiful stories about healing (both spiritual and phyisical). Tears filled my eyes as she spoke of her late husband. Am I getting more sensitive on the Camino or did I have a glass too much of wine?
The meal, the conversation, the company, the night. Best on the trip yet. Cold showers and lack of electricity make it all the better. Candle lit dinner? Anytime, please. I'm sleeping in ruins tonight. When will I be able to say that again?
Sweet! Happy to read the spunk back in your step.
ReplyDelete